Thursday, October 11, 2018


Valley of Flowers trek - August 2018

No doubt we would not have attempted this difficult trek if it was not for Blue Poppy. They reassured us, guided us and helped us to decide to take this arduous trip.

They were very prompt in their replies and gave us very practical suggestions. There were a lot of horror stories from well wishers about landslides, torrential rains and a very tedious trek.  But we decided to go.
 
Our group leader Ronny
The entire experience was from 2nd August to 12th August.
We left Tata on the 2nd of August by Rajdhani at 4 pm and reached New Delhi the next day at 11 am. The Jan Shatabdi for Hardiwar left New Delhi at 3:20 pm and reached Haridwar at 8 pm. As per the terms with Blue Poppy, the package started from accommodation at the hotel in Haridwar. Therefore, we had to find our own way at an exorbitant cost of Rs. 1,000 in an Innova for a 7 km ride !
 
Stop for breakfast

A Landslide
However, the hotel – Clarks Inn Brinjal – was comfortable though there was a slightly musty odour. However, the rooms and linen, towels, etc. were clean. We were served a wholesome and satisfying vegetarian dinner that made up for the expensive ride.






The next morning our tour vehicle – a Tempo Traveller – was ready for departure at 6 o’ clock. We left for Joshimath at 6:10. A journey which would normally have taken 8 to 10 hours as we were told, took us 14 ½ hours with two stops for landslides to be cleared (during one of which we had our breakfast) and another stop for lunch. Since we were already late at Joshimath – 8:30 pm – they decided that it would be better to travel another one hour to reach Govindghat. That made the entire journey one of 15 ½ hours !


We were checked into Hotel Badrish which was very comfortable and had running hot water ! A vegetarian buffet dinner was already served for all the tourists – Blue Poppy as well others.
Ready to start


View from outside our hotel in Govindghat

On the morning of the 5th, we awoke to a clear sunny day and were prepared for the long trek to Ghangaria. We set out at 9 o’clock driving towards Pulna village – the furthest point accessible by driving. However, the sound of a helicopter distracted us. Being a clear day, the helicopter service was operating ! Our guide offered the option of a helicopter ride (at extra cost, of course). It turned out to be Rs. 2,850 per person. Without hesitation, we decided on the chopper ride ! The necessary formalities took barely ten minutes – the weight of each person was checked, the money paid and we were ready to board. The maximum number of people allowed on each flight was five and each person was allowed upto 5 kg of luggage.


We were more than compensated for the long, tedious bus ride of the previous day. In less than ten minutes we were at Ghangaria – an exciting flight weaving through the gaps in the mountains, looking down at the river wending its way through the valley.



We landed in Ghangaria at 9:30 and trekked up half a km to our hotel – Hotel Preetam.
Though the entrance was not very attractive, our rooms were spacious and comfortable. Steaming hot water came in a bucket when requested, as much as and at any time we wanted – early morning as well as at night. Blankets were sufficient. A tip...lay out one on the bed and get in and cover yourself with the other – advice from a Sherpa.

We spent the rest of the day getting familiar with our surroundings, the shops, and enjoying the views of the mountains from the other end of the village. The Uttarakhand Tourism Office offers a half hour curtain raiser video on the valley of flowers for a small charge.


Books on the flowers are available and recommended.

Ponchos and a walking stick are a must and can be purchased from Govindghat. So is rain protection for your knapsacks.

On the 6th of August we trekked to the Valley of Flowers. We started at 7:00 am. By eleven we reached our destination. We spent 90 minutes of pure ecstasy in this environment – a green carpet with a bed of flowers – pink, red, yellow, blue, maroon, purple !

Now the trek up is not easy. Mules are not allowed in the valley. For the strong hearted – you can sit on a chair strapped to the back of a Sherpa - Rs. 2,000 (suggested), or on a palanquin with four carriers – Rs. 7,000 (suggested). But first test yourself out and, like me, avoid the temptation and you will be so pleased and proud that you made it !

Looking back, I would like to have gone up twice – the second time, maybe on a ‘pithu’ (one man chair).

We skipped going to Hemkund Sahib and left Ghangaria a day earlier. Our objective was VOF.

Ghangaria is damp, humid and cold – about 7oC. Clothes do not dry. Carrying a hair dryer is highly recommended to combat the dampness in the air. There is a facility that dries shoes and clothes around a fire for Rs. 100 - 300 a piece.

Meals at the restaurant, though vegetarian, are fresh and tasty, and also reasonably priced. Eggs can be ordered separately. We loved the tomato soup, served with croutons and cream…yum.

The meals included in the package were served at Hotel Priya next door. The breakfast, lunch and dinner were tasty and wholesome.

The township is at 10,200 ft and the valley is at 11,200 ft. We needed to carry a warm jacket and a water-proof jacket with a hood over it. Those who didn’t could hire one at Rs 250/day from a shop opposite Pritam hotel.

The plastic ponchos available are flimsy and tear easily. The next time I go trekking, I would invest in a warm water-proof hooded jacket from Quechua (and they are not cheap !) and quick drying trousers from brands like Colombia.

Shoes must have the feature of letting the water out, and be rugged since we will be walking up and down at many places at 45o to 60o angles. Some ladies used plastic rain shoes which were very comfortable and easily withstood the arduous climb. We carried an additional pair of closed sandals in our knapsacks. Carry a 500 ml bottle of water as you will sweat profusely while climbing. We didn’t see the necessity of carrying any snacks, although we did carry some.




















Taking photographs is a problem throughout the trek as it’s almost always drizzling. So we used a hybrid system. My MOTO G phone is water resistant and more so with its plastic back cover. It’s easier to manage, too.

Next, I loaned my Canon Powershot  SX710HS to a companion. This was very convenient and could be taken out of our pockets easily.

Cameras and photographs are extremely important to make us re-live the journey.

A Rainbow says au revoir

Some after thoughts…

Overall, on the way back, we should have arrived in Haridwar early morning and taken the train immediately, or used a hotel at Haridwar – like Hotel Shivmurti at Rs. 1,200 per night for one room.
We would have been better off carrying an extra hair dryer, plastic rain shoes (fancy climbing boots get wet and soggy) and a rain cover for our knapsacks.
Flip flops and sandals important.

A warm rain jacket which is a two in one would be better than a poncho.


#Valley_of_flowers_#Govindghat#Ghangaria#jamshdpur#dcosta#trek

Monday, October 8, 2018

Lawrence Durrell - his contributions to the Great Expansion in Jamshedpur, 1921 - 1926


The Durrells in India

Gerald Malcolm Durrell was born in Jamshedpur, 250 km from Calcutta (Kolkata) on 7 January 1925. He was the fourth child of Louisa and Lawrence Samuel Durrell, a dynamic builder during the Great Expansion of the Tata Iron & Steel Works in Jamshedpur between 1920 and 1926. Gerald was delivered at home at D 6/ #10, Beldih Lake, by Dr. Satinath Sen whose descendants continue to live and practice in the medical field in Jamshedpur.

Both Gerald’s parents as well as his maternal grandfather were British with their family roots in India having been born and brought up in this country. His father was born in Dum Dum, Bengal, in 1885. This innovative, dynamic, creative entrepreneur of English stock graduated from the prestigious Thomason College of Civil Engineering in Roorkee now called the Indian Institute of Technology, Roorkee, and the University of London (1913). His mother was born in Roorkee. Her maiden name was Dixie. They met and married in Roorkee in 1910.


Lawrence Samuel Durrell and Louisa had four children. The first child, Lawrence, was born in 1912 while he was working at his first job with the North-West Railway in Jalandhar. Leslie, the second, was born in 1918, Margaret in 1920 and Gerald in 1925.




From Jalandhar he moved to Bengal to take up a job with the Mymensingh–Bhairab Bazar Railway Company.

In 1918 he took up a very challenging assignment as Chief Engineer with the Darjeeling Railway. His eldest son, Lawrence, Gerald’s brother, studied at North Point (St. Joseph’s School), Darjeeling. Later he was sent to England to complete his studies.

Lawrence left the Darjeeling Himalayan Railways in 1920 and moved to Jamshedpur where he set up his own firm Durrell & Company. Here he completed several jobs that were planned for the Great Expansion of the Tata Iron and Steel Co.


Having been born and brought up in India, Lawrence and his family regarded India as their home. Lawrence preferred to be called an Anglo-Indian. He is famously known to have resigned at a certain club when membership was refused to an Indian doctor who save his son Lawrence's life.


Tata Works Great expansion 1918...

Lawrence Durrell's contribution to Jamshedpur 1920 to 1926

Working with General Managers T. W. Tutwiler( 1916 to 1925)and C. A. Alexander 

On the Bombay Howrah Mail, approaching Tatanagar we know we’re close when we see the glow in the sky. But when we hear the rumbling of the train over the Kharkai Bridge (Subarnarekha Bridge), we know it’s time to get off.

Not many people realize that Lawrence Durrell built this Railway bridge when you enter Jamshedpur from the west (as from Bombay). The steel girder bridge is the first sign of the Lawrence’s influence in Jamshedpur. It was built by Durrell and Company in 1922.

In Jamshedpur, between 1920 and 1925, he made his name in completing large projects started by the Tata Iron & Steel Company and several new jobs with the associated companies. He also took up several other jobs including the running of brick kilns. He was also known to provide essential requirements to the steel works and labour during the strike of 1922.

The first contracts he received were to build the Enamelled Ironware Co. (now untraceable), and the Indian Cable Company, secured from their Managing Agents Kilburn & Co. Concurrently, Shaw Wallace & Co., Managing Agents of the Tinplate Company of India, assigned him the contract to build the Mill and Town site of the company. At the same time he was awarded contracts with the expanding Steel Company.

The Tata Iron and Steel Works, with T. W. Tutwiler, the tough, rude, but courageous and far-sighted General Manager at the helm from 1916 - 1925 was implementing the FIRST GREAT EXPANSION. He was an innovator who adapted the manufacturing to produce products , including gun shells,  which were in high demand. He violently attacked a foreman who came to work in a tie. This resulted in the man resigning and forming a labour union.


As the testimonials mention, Durrell could provide a huge number of labourers, which were always in short supply.
Quote from a testimonial ………

“ ……………. an Engineer of remarkable energy and ability and with a pleasant manner, with whom it is a pleasure to work, and who with the staff under him is qualified to undertake large contract works and carry them through in a prompt and workmanlike manner.

I wish them all success in their future career.”

                                                                                         (Sd.) A. K. WERNIGG
                                                                               Deputy Chief Town Engineer,
                                                             The Tata Iron & Steel Company, Limited
                                                                            Jamshedpur, via Tatanagar
                                                                                             December, 1922.

He completed the Tata Main Hospital and the General Office building.

Brick manufacturing, an essential requirement, was started on a large scale. Altogether 9 kilns produced a total of 2,35,000 bricks per year which was more than adequate for all expansions.

Concurrently he executed railway contracts for bridges and tracks.

When he left Jamshedpur, he had executed 15 projects amounting to a total of Rs. 92,00,000.  There were 7 industrial projects amounting to Rs. 47,00, 000 and 8 projects with the Railways, including two townships, amounting to Rs. 45,00,000.

The management also never failed to mention in their testimony, his important role in ensuring the supply of essentials, materials and labour during the strike in 1922.

In spite of all these successes, Lawrence did not stay here longer than six years. This unsung builder of Jamshedpur left the town in 1926 and headed for the new emerging city of Lahore.

 Here are some quotes ………………………
References from ‘Construction Work in India 1921 – 1925’ by Durrell & Co.



The Steel Co.’s new General Offices

This consists of a steel structure cased in brickwork, 227 ft 6 inches long, 144 ft 6 inches wide. It was originally designed as a seven-storeyed building with 15ft. verandahs all round, but was actually built as a three-storeyed building with the verandahs entirely enclosed though the steelwork and foundations are designed to take the seven stories later, if required.
The style of architecture is Indo-Sacroscenic, the building being a rectangular block surrounding a courtyard with a carriageway running through it, the latter passing with lofty arches at either end.

The building as constructed cost Rs. 14,00,000.



Testimonials

The Tata Iron and Steel Company, Limited
                                                                                             Jamshedpur, via Tatanagar, B.N. Ry.
                                                                                                                    March 20th, 1926.

I have pleasure in certifying that Messrs. Durrell and Company, Engineers and Contractors, carried out extensive contract work at Jamshedpur for three years 1921, ’22 and ’23, while construction operations were in progress both for the Steel Company and several of the Associated Companies.
The work undertaken for the Steel Company comprised the following :-
1.         New General Office
2.         General Hospital
3.         Sand-lime Brick Plant
4.         Brick Manufacture
5.         Various works on Greater Extensions
6.         Industrial Siding
Messrs. Durrell and Company also completed construction work for the Factory Buildings and Quarters of the Tinplate Company of India, Limited, Enamelled Ironware, Limited, and Indian Cable Company, Limited.
Their work was very satisfactory and Mr. Durrell, their Managing Director, an Engineer of wide experience, personally supervised all these contracts, displaying great energy and ability.
They also rendered invaluable aid in labour and material during the strike of 1922.
I wish them every success in their future undertakings.
THE TATA IRON AND STEEL COMPANY, LIMITED

                                               (SD.) C. A. ALEXANDER
                                                          General Manager




The TINPLATE COMPANY OF INDIA, LTD.
              Managing Agents,
        Shaw Wallace AND Co., CALCUTTA
                                                                         Goulmuri Works,
                                                  Jamshedpur, via Tatanagar, B.N. Railway
                                                                         27th August, 1923
The TINPLATE COMPANY OF INDIA, LTD.,
                                   GOULMURI WORKS

                                        (To whom it may concern)

This is to certify that Messrs. Durrell and Company have had the contract for the excavation of foundations and concrete, erection of structural steel, corrugated siding and roofing, and placing of all machinery, in connection with the complete construction of the Tinplate Mill for the Tinpalte Company of India, Limited.
The amount of their contract for this work during the last two years was, approximately, Rs. 20 lacs.
We have found Messrs. Durrell and Company able to carry all their work to our entire satisfaction and they have been able to supply us with all labour required practically at all times.
It was mostly due to their ability to supply labour as required, that enabled the plant to be constructed in a comparatively short time.
We can recommend Messrs. Durrell and Company to anyone requiring a contractor with an organization to handle a large amount of work.
                                                                                                                                                                                                        (Sd.) J. W. Bell
                                                              Supervising Engineer,
for Messrs. Perin & Marshall,
                                                                Consulting Engineers.

Colonial Contractors Business Plan in the early Twentieth Century

Colonial India developed a unique system of a business plan. The contractors, of British origin like Lawrence, were the public face of the company. They got the job and because of their education and experience were able to coordinate the workers and complete the job. They preferred to implement every project separately with a local financial partner. Profits were proportionately shared on project completion. This protected their main capital.
 He could predict the turbulent times that were approaching in India in preparation for its freedom. He was able to provide well for his family out of the country.Thus, Lawrence Durrell left his family a large 8 bedroom house in Dulwich, England, a farm in Tasmania and Rs. 2,40,000, equivalent to about half a million pounds today.

In 1926 Lawrence Durrell’s immaculate sense of timing and his keen perception of where the opportunities lay, signaled that they should now move to Lahore, the emerging city in the Punjab. However, after his success in Jamshedpur, he underestimated the challenge of building canals and roads, a job very different from those he had excelled in, in Jamshedpur.

  This involved dealing with new financiers. In retrospect, this might have been the cause of the beginning of his decline. Unforeseen barriers in road building that led to financial shortfalls, misunderstandings with unreasonable partners and legal cases. Durrell added to his own anxiety by refusing to hire professional lawyers to appear in court.

In addition, the climatic conditions, particularly the heat, were a challenge. Unfortunately, the hazards of his job took their toll. He suffered a severe suspected cerebral haemorrhage supervising a piece of work while out in the sun. He was rushed to the cooler climate of Dalhousie but he never recovered. He passed away in April 1928.

                                                                 
Gerald Durrell
1925 - 1995

Lawrence had already built a comfortable bungalow opposite the Beldih Lake whilst also helping the Tata Iron and Steel Company cope with the strike of 1922.

Bungalow D6 / # 10 was home to Louisa who had become exceptionally large expecting Gerald. He was born with ease at home assisted by a UK trained Bengali doctor in Jamshedpur – Dr. Satinath Sen.

 Durrell home, European Bungalow D6#10 built in 1922
                                      
By the end of 1925, the Great Expansion of Tata Iron and Steel Co.was quickly coming to an end. Lawrence picked up his family and moved to Lahore.

His eldest son, Lawrence George, 14 years, and the second one, Leslie – 8 years, were already studying in England. So there were just Margaret and Gerald at 18 months, who accompanied their parents to Lahore.

Gerald’s early memories and impression of India certainly came from Lahore between 1926 and 1928, the last few months being in Dalhousie where Lawrence passed away.

Many of Gerald Durrell’s biographies mention where he could have picked up his love for animals and where his first encounter would be. His family left Jamshedpur when he was very young, just about a year, and moved to Lahore where they stayed till 1928 when he was three. So if it is considered that he was influenced by animals, it would certainly be in Lahore where they had a large house and probably had a few animals, and saw a few animals in the zoo. His parents might not have had too much of an influence on his life since they saw him only for a few moments when he was presented by the ‘ayah’ at tea time but it looks like the maids did give him a lot of free time except, we understand, when he says that he wanted to pick up a slug from the ground, which was brown, and his maid strongly objected to this.

Louisa Durrell moved due to financial and other reasons – safety and weather –  out from the UK to the friendly climate of Corfu. Her eldest son, Lawrence, and his first wife, his brother Leslie and sister Margaret accompanied Gerald and his mother. Their life in Corfu has been described in “My Family and Other Animals”.

His actual love for animals blossomed here. His early influence and his love for animals came from his stay here and the influence of his teachers. We know that Gerald Durrell was home schooled and was influenced by his elder brother who lived separately. Both were able to describe their experiences creatively and colourfully.

How did India contribute to Gerald Durrell’s flair for writing ? He himself says that his memories have been sharply etched by vineyards in brilliant colour, by sights, sound, smell and taste – very believable in a country like India. The coloured sunsets were certainly one great example. He seemed to have been able to identify the smell of coriander, bananas and even the different kinds of rice. However, his favourite dessert or breakfast was rice boiled in buffaloes milk with sugar which today is probably called ‘kheer’.

Lawrence George Durrell, Gerald’s eldest brother, became a much more famous author than Gerald. He wrote a number of books of which his claim to fame was 'The Alexandra Quartet'. Many years later it was discovered that he was even in line and nominated for the Nobel Prize for Literature but for some reason was finally not selected.



Gerald Durrell was a shining example of a person who has trained himself. His amazing, photographic memory and his inherited Irish humour combined to create unique novels with deep knowledge of God’s creatures.
He wrote 37 books mainly to finance his passion to discover and rescue endangered creatures.

The Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust in Jersey is his lasting contribution.

Lee Durrell, his wife, continues to live his dream. She visited Jamshedpur in April 2017 and Loyola School was privileged to start a Durrell Centre which she inaugurated.




Ronald D’Costa, the founder of the Gerald Durrell Initiative, visited the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust in Jersey in July 2017 and strengthened the ties with Jamshedpur.



The Gerald Durrell Initiative introduced ‘Zoo-keeper for the day’ at the Tata Zoo in Jamshedpur and also a Gerald Durrell Book Club to re-visit his novels.  

#Lawrence#Durrell##Jersey#Gerald#Lee#Jamshedpur#Wildlife#Louisa#Jamshedpur#Loyola